Should I Shut Off the Motor When I'm Idling my Car?
Here's the rule of thumb: If you're in a drive-through restaurant/business line or waiting for someone and you'll be parked and sitting for 10 seconds or longer... turn off your car's engine.
Why? For every two minutes a car is idling, it uses about the same amount of fuel it takes to go about one mile. Research indicates that the average person idles their car five to 10 minutes a day. People usually idle their cars more in the winter than in the summer. But even in winter, you don't need to let your car sit and idle for five minutes to "warm it up" when 30 seconds will do just fine.
But you're not going anywhere. Idling gets ZERO miles per gallon.
The recommendation is: If you are going to be parked for more than 30 seconds, turn off the engine. Ten seconds of idling can use more fuel than turning off the engine and restarting it. And when you start your engine, don't step down on the accelerator, just simply turn the key to start.
An alternative to idling is to park your car, walk inside, do your business and then go back to your car.
Here are some other Myths associated with idling.
Myth #1: The engine should be warmed up before driving. Reality: Idling is not an effective way to warm up your vehicle, even in cold weather. The best way to do this is to drive the vehicle. With today's modern engines, you need no more than 30 seconds of idling on winter days before driving away.
Myth #2: Idling is good for your engine. Reality: Excessive idling can actually damage your engine components, including cylinders, spark plugs, and exhaust systems. Fuel is only partially combusted when idling because an engine does not operate at its peak temperature. This leads to the build up of fuel residues on cylinder walls that can damage engine components and increase fuel consumption.
Myth #3: Shutting off and restarting your vehicle is hard on the engine and uses more gas than if you leave it running. Reality: Frequent restarting has little impact on engine components like the battery and the starter motor. Component wear caused by restarting the engine is estimated to add $10 per year to the cost of driving, money that will likely be recovered several times over in fuel savings from reduced idling. The bottom line is that more than ten seconds of idling uses more fuel than restarting the engine.
Courtesy of: http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/myths/idling.html
15 May 2010
08 May 2010
Tour With Us
If you live in or around San Francisco, join us for a tour of private gardens in Noe Valley on Saturday 12 June. A Liquidambar-designed garden is one of 8 that will be open to the public. Called 'Spirit of China,' the garden is a tribute to one of the owners who grew up in Shanghai.
Friends of Noe Valley sponsor the tour and proceeds benefit a neighborhood greening project. For details call May at 415.298.2344. See photo at the ShortTakes column of the May issue of Noe Valley Voice.
Friends of Noe Valley sponsor the tour and proceeds benefit a neighborhood greening project. For details call May at 415.298.2344. See photo at the ShortTakes column of the May issue of Noe Valley Voice.
02 May 2010
Water Water ... Everywhere?
Recent rain storms might have you thinking we’re now over the three-year drought. Snow-pack is above normal for this time of year, reservoirs are filling up. But like the skeptics who believe the east coast snow storms disprove the ‘inconvenient truth’ of climate change, our water shortages are not replenished with just one wet winter. Without immediate action, California residents by 2015 will be consuming more water at current usage rates than will be available, regardless of future rains.
Effective January 2010, new state water regulations seriously impact the allowable use of water for landscaping (see link below: CA State AB 1881 - WELO - Water Efficient Landscape Ordinance). While these regulations may not directly affect many small urban gardens, they do provide a useful guide for people trying to plan for future conservation, because by 2020, California will require all residents to reduce overall water use by 20 percent. And in case this is not obvious, this legislation is telling us we face tighter supplies, and consequently, significantly higher water costs. It makes sense to start with this reality.
So what can we do now to prepare. One simple way to reduce water consumption is to harvest rainwater. Rainwater is harvested by redirecting down-spouts and gutters into water-tight barrels to which your irrigation system can be attached to run exactly as it would from your tap. In addition to watering your garden, rainwater also can be used for bathing, flushing toilets and washing laundry. Salvaging rainwater protects the environment as well as minimizing waste and costly treatment systems: Runoff water is a major source of pollution in San Francisco Bay, as it makes its way over toxic rooftop materials and oily streets into storm drainage systems.
Numerous resources are available on-line to demonstrate rain-barrel installations for the do-it-yourselfer (see links below). For the not-so-handy, rain barrels can be discretely designed into your new landscape (hidden under decks, screened with plants or trellis); or they can be added later as part of on-going maintenance. And if your budget prevents purchasing high-end designer tanks, other options are available for the resourceful homeowner. Some garden centers and hardware stores also sell barrels. Be aware: all rainwater storage units need to have a first flush diverter (literally, to clear debris from the initial water flow); a strainer to prevent dirt getting into your container; an overflow devise when the barrels fill up. And for functionality, containers are best elevated on concrete blocks or similar. It is critical they be water-tight and screened to dispel mosquitoes.
If properly harvested and stored, rainwater also is drinkable, but only if the containers are food grade (think earthquake preparedness!) As long as your roofing material is non-toxic, rainwater flowing off it is drinkable.
An alternative or adjunct to harvesting rainwater is to reclaim household ‘grey-water’ from the clothes washer, shower and/or dishwasher. This is more complex and may require the services of a plumber and in some areas, a permit. If these options are not viable for your space or the footprint of your home, another way to minimize waste while promoting healthier soil is to create a ‘rain garden.’ Essentially a retention basin, this shallow depression initially contains rainwater that is directed from gutters and down-spouts. As it percolates into the soil, the water is filtered of impurities, thus preventing polluted runoff from entering the municipal water system and the Bay. Properly designed, these areas can be incorporated into your new or existing garden and planted with appropriate trees, shrubs and perennials. Where space allows, they can be designed to look like wet/dry streams, swales or water-features.
http://www.greywaterguerrillas.com/;
http://www.water.ca.gov/wateruseefficiency/landscapeordinance/]
Effective January 2010, new state water regulations seriously impact the allowable use of water for landscaping (see link below: CA State AB 1881 - WELO - Water Efficient Landscape Ordinance). While these regulations may not directly affect many small urban gardens, they do provide a useful guide for people trying to plan for future conservation, because by 2020, California will require all residents to reduce overall water use by 20 percent. And in case this is not obvious, this legislation is telling us we face tighter supplies, and consequently, significantly higher water costs. It makes sense to start with this reality.
So what can we do now to prepare. One simple way to reduce water consumption is to harvest rainwater. Rainwater is harvested by redirecting down-spouts and gutters into water-tight barrels to which your irrigation system can be attached to run exactly as it would from your tap. In addition to watering your garden, rainwater also can be used for bathing, flushing toilets and washing laundry. Salvaging rainwater protects the environment as well as minimizing waste and costly treatment systems: Runoff water is a major source of pollution in San Francisco Bay, as it makes its way over toxic rooftop materials and oily streets into storm drainage systems.
Numerous resources are available on-line to demonstrate rain-barrel installations for the do-it-yourselfer (see links below). For the not-so-handy, rain barrels can be discretely designed into your new landscape (hidden under decks, screened with plants or trellis); or they can be added later as part of on-going maintenance. And if your budget prevents purchasing high-end designer tanks, other options are available for the resourceful homeowner. Some garden centers and hardware stores also sell barrels. Be aware: all rainwater storage units need to have a first flush diverter (literally, to clear debris from the initial water flow); a strainer to prevent dirt getting into your container; an overflow devise when the barrels fill up. And for functionality, containers are best elevated on concrete blocks or similar. It is critical they be water-tight and screened to dispel mosquitoes.
If properly harvested and stored, rainwater also is drinkable, but only if the containers are food grade (think earthquake preparedness!) As long as your roofing material is non-toxic, rainwater flowing off it is drinkable.
An alternative or adjunct to harvesting rainwater is to reclaim household ‘grey-water’ from the clothes washer, shower and/or dishwasher. This is more complex and may require the services of a plumber and in some areas, a permit. If these options are not viable for your space or the footprint of your home, another way to minimize waste while promoting healthier soil is to create a ‘rain garden.’ Essentially a retention basin, this shallow depression initially contains rainwater that is directed from gutters and down-spouts. As it percolates into the soil, the water is filtered of impurities, thus preventing polluted runoff from entering the municipal water system and the Bay. Properly designed, these areas can be incorporated into your new or existing garden and planted with appropriate trees, shrubs and perennials. Where space allows, they can be designed to look like wet/dry streams, swales or water-features.
As with rain gardens, the issue for most San Francisco Bay Area homeowners typically is space, or lack of space to store the rain barrels. Even if you have space for just one or two containers, these can be replenished in the dry season with water salvaged from the shower as it runs ‘till it’s hot. Possibly the simplest water-conserving method is to plant drought-tolerant natives, succulents and climate-appropriate plants that require minimal or no water once they become established. A responsible plant selection can produce a lush, luxuriant garden, as green as the once-favored lawn without the consequent hazards of pesticide use, oil-powered mowers and wasted water.
http://www.water.ca.gov/wateruseefficiency/landscapeordinance/]
29 April 2010
Greening San Francisco
San Francisco Passes Landscaping Law
Edited from Rachel Gordon, SFChronicle Staff Writer
The continued quest by San Francisco officials to green the streets moved forward with final passage of legislation that will require developers to use landscaping to beautify the city and keep excess rainwater out of the sewers.
The Green Landscaping Ordinance, proposed by Mayor Gavin Newsom and approved unanimously by the Board of Supervisors, primarily will affect new development, but also will apply to owners who make significant alterations to their properties.
The legislation, which Newsom still must sign into law, will require that 50 percent of the surface area in new front yards be permeable, either with in-ground plantings, porous asphalt or interlocking bricks or pavers that will allow more rainwater to soak into the ground. The goal is to divert rainwater from the storm drains and reduce the burden on San Francisco's aging sewer system.
In addition, the legislation calls for parking lots, gas stations, car washes and other automobile-dense uses to be planted with more trees. Trees or ornamental fencing, or a combination of the two, will have to be used to screen larger lots from public view. Garage doors or solid walls can be used on smaller lots.
The new ordinance "will help San Francisco move forward with our environmental and aesthetic goals," said Supervisor Carmen Chu, lead sponsor of the proposal. "You will start to see a change over time.” Once existing properties were largely removed from the legislation's reach, no significant opposition emerged.
The new landscape ordinance builds on efforts over the last couple of years in San Francisco to create areas known as pocket parks on blocked-off streets, to plant median strips, and to rip out sections of sidewalk to make room for cafe tables and plants.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/04/14/BA1P1CUBG8.DTL
This article appeared April 14 on page C - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
Edited from Rachel Gordon, SFChronicle Staff Writer
The continued quest by San Francisco officials to green the streets moved forward with final passage of legislation that will require developers to use landscaping to beautify the city and keep excess rainwater out of the sewers.
The Green Landscaping Ordinance, proposed by Mayor Gavin Newsom and approved unanimously by the Board of Supervisors, primarily will affect new development, but also will apply to owners who make significant alterations to their properties.
The legislation, which Newsom still must sign into law, will require that 50 percent of the surface area in new front yards be permeable, either with in-ground plantings, porous asphalt or interlocking bricks or pavers that will allow more rainwater to soak into the ground. The goal is to divert rainwater from the storm drains and reduce the burden on San Francisco's aging sewer system.
In addition, the legislation calls for parking lots, gas stations, car washes and other automobile-dense uses to be planted with more trees. Trees or ornamental fencing, or a combination of the two, will have to be used to screen larger lots from public view. Garage doors or solid walls can be used on smaller lots.
The new ordinance "will help San Francisco move forward with our environmental and aesthetic goals," said Supervisor Carmen Chu, lead sponsor of the proposal. "You will start to see a change over time.” Once existing properties were largely removed from the legislation's reach, no significant opposition emerged.
The new landscape ordinance builds on efforts over the last couple of years in San Francisco to create areas known as pocket parks on blocked-off streets, to plant median strips, and to rip out sections of sidewalk to make room for cafe tables and plants.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/04/14/BA1P1CUBG8.DTL
This article appeared April 14 on page C - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
24 April 2010
Sheet Mulching
The Hows, Whys and…What?
Sheet mulching is one organic soil amending technique we can use very effectively in our gardens. This technique replicates what happens in nature by recreating the thick layer of decaying leaf litter that drops from trees. As this material breaks down, it improves and enriches the soil, creating a healthy soil structure that is essential for robust plant growth. You can use this technique to improve soil around existing plants or if you’re installing a new garden.
For details and photos, follow this link (thank you Susan!) to: blueplanetgardening.com/art-mulch.
Sheet mulching is one organic soil amending technique we can use very effectively in our gardens. This technique replicates what happens in nature by recreating the thick layer of decaying leaf litter that drops from trees. As this material breaks down, it improves and enriches the soil, creating a healthy soil structure that is essential for robust plant growth. You can use this technique to improve soil around existing plants or if you’re installing a new garden.
For details and photos, follow this link (thank you Susan!) to: blueplanetgardening.com/art-mulch.
22 April 2010
Salvage Sources
Recycle - Reuse - Repurpose: below are some local sources where you can reduce waste, divert tons of materials from landfills and pick up some useful or whimsical materials.
The ReUse People - www.thereusepeople.org
2100 Ferry Point, No. 150, Alameda; 510.522.0767
This nonprofit does whole house deconstruction and maintains an extensive warehouse of used building supplies.
Building Resources - www.buildingresources.org
701 Amador St, San Francisco; 415.285.7814
Part old-fashion junk yard, part art installation, Building REsources has lots of funky materials at great prices if you search among the rubble. Also sells tumbled recycled glass in all colors.
Scrap - www.scrap-sf.org
801 Toland St, San Francisco; 415.647.1746;
A non-profit, Scrap breathes new life into old objects by reusing materials such as textiles, buttons, paper, craft and office supplies, plastics and wood collected from businesses, institutions and individuals. Teachers, parents, artists and organizations depend on SCRAP as the place to find all manner of materials for projects and classrooms.
Ohmega Salvage - www.ohmegasalvage.com;
2407 & 2400 San Pablo Ave, Berkeley; 510.204.0767
Restoration materials and furniture from older, mostly pre-1950s buildings.
Urban Ore - www.shopinberkeley.com/urbanore
900 Murray St, Berkeley; 510.841.7283;
Everything and lots of it. Also a showcase for sustainable building materials and design features.
Whole House Building Supply - www.driftwoodsalvage.com
1955 Pulgas Rd, East Palo Alto; 650.328.8731;
Sign up for pre-demolition sale e-mails or call the hot line at 650.328.8732.
Wood, doors, windows, also some tubs, cabinets, mantels, sinks and appliances.
Caldwell’s Building Salvage - www.caldwell-bldg-salvage.com
195 Bayshore Blvd, San Francisco; 415.550.6777
Mostly lumber, windows, doors – with a great affordable door shop to build frames for old doors. Also windows, hardwood, the occasional claw-foot tub – plus a showroom with new flooring, bathrooms, etc.
The ReUse People - www.thereusepeople.org
2100 Ferry Point, No. 150, Alameda; 510.522.0767
This nonprofit does whole house deconstruction and maintains an extensive warehouse of used building supplies.
Building Resources - www.buildingresources.org
701 Amador St, San Francisco; 415.285.7814
Part old-fashion junk yard, part art installation, Building REsources has lots of funky materials at great prices if you search among the rubble. Also sells tumbled recycled glass in all colors.
Scrap - www.scrap-sf.org
801 Toland St, San Francisco; 415.647.1746;
A non-profit, Scrap breathes new life into old objects by reusing materials such as textiles, buttons, paper, craft and office supplies, plastics and wood collected from businesses, institutions and individuals. Teachers, parents, artists and organizations depend on SCRAP as the place to find all manner of materials for projects and classrooms.
Ohmega Salvage - www.ohmegasalvage.com;
2407 & 2400 San Pablo Ave, Berkeley; 510.204.0767
Restoration materials and furniture from older, mostly pre-1950s buildings.
Urban Ore - www.shopinberkeley.com/urbanore
900 Murray St, Berkeley; 510.841.7283;
Everything and lots of it. Also a showcase for sustainable building materials and design features.
Whole House Building Supply - www.driftwoodsalvage.com
1955 Pulgas Rd, East Palo Alto; 650.328.8731;
Sign up for pre-demolition sale e-mails or call the hot line at 650.328.8732.
Wood, doors, windows, also some tubs, cabinets, mantels, sinks and appliances.
Caldwell’s Building Salvage - www.caldwell-bldg-salvage.com
195 Bayshore Blvd, San Francisco; 415.550.6777
Mostly lumber, windows, doors – with a great affordable door shop to build frames for old doors. Also windows, hardwood, the occasional claw-foot tub – plus a showroom with new flooring, bathrooms, etc.
19 April 2010
Spring Tips
The San Francisco Examiner recently interviewed me to get some 'Tips from a Pro' on what to do and see in the garden this time of year. Following is the edited version published 4 March 2010:
What special growing conditions are unique to our region?
We’re fortunate to have a Mediterranean climate. This means we have long dry summers with rain only in our short winter season. The area also has more than 30 microclimates.
What plants are in bloom now? What’s coming up, and how can we keep them looking good?
Plants from the southern hemisphere — South Africa, Chile, Australia, New Zealand — bloom during our winter, so these are good options. Most also tolerate drought. Plants that do well in more temperate climates also can thrive here. These include late-season and early-spring bloomers such as camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas and other acid-lovers typical of Asian or woodland gardens.
What other plants will soon be in season?
Many native California plants are early spring bloomers, like ceanothus, the wild lilac, available in a wide range of groundcovers, shrubs, and some that can be trained as small trees. You’ll see the California poppy and lupinus popping up. Ribes are the native currant, and gooseberry shrubs with gorgeous delicate blossoms. Arctostaphylos, the manzanitas, one of my favorites, offer some robust groundcovers, shrubs, and small trees with beautiful bronze bark.
Are there long-range steps we should take now to help our garden later?
Good soil structure produces healthy, robust plants. Most soils benefit from a good organic amendment that, over time, greatly enriches the soil. These are available at most good garden centers and can be applied in spring and fall. For mature gardens, top dressing works well — lay the amendment around the base of the plant and let the organisms in the soil do the work. In new gardens, mix amendment into the native soil when plants are being installed.
How about trimming and fertilizing?
It’s usually best to prune deciduous trees when they’re not in leaf. Hire a professional who can see the tree’s structure and trim appropriately for aesthetic value as well as tree health and leaf growth. Carefully select fertilizers and follow directions to fertilize roses, fruit trees and vegetables.
Special secrets for this time of year?
Foliage plants outperform many bloomers. Excellent examples include banksia, protea and leucadendron. One favorite is the “Safari Sunset” variety. Phormiums are tough flax that come in numerous colors as well as dwarf sizes for small spaces. Tree bark can shine in winter gardens: examples are coral bark Japanese maple, white bark birch, golden bronze of evergreen arbutus.
What are trends for gardens for 2010?
Water is the major concern, regardless of recent rains. Lawn substitutes, native and no-mow grasses will prevail. People also are planning vegetable gardens. Hopefully, more people will come to love succulents, which add enormous sculptural value to landscapes with well-draining soils, and they’re excellent in pots.
Read more at the San Francisco Examiner
4:34:00 PM by LIQUIDAMBAR Garden Design Delete
What special growing conditions are unique to our region?
We’re fortunate to have a Mediterranean climate. This means we have long dry summers with rain only in our short winter season. The area also has more than 30 microclimates.
What plants are in bloom now? What’s coming up, and how can we keep them looking good?
Plants from the southern hemisphere — South Africa, Chile, Australia, New Zealand — bloom during our winter, so these are good options. Most also tolerate drought. Plants that do well in more temperate climates also can thrive here. These include late-season and early-spring bloomers such as camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas and other acid-lovers typical of Asian or woodland gardens.
What other plants will soon be in season?
Many native California plants are early spring bloomers, like ceanothus, the wild lilac, available in a wide range of groundcovers, shrubs, and some that can be trained as small trees. You’ll see the California poppy and lupinus popping up. Ribes are the native currant, and gooseberry shrubs with gorgeous delicate blossoms. Arctostaphylos, the manzanitas, one of my favorites, offer some robust groundcovers, shrubs, and small trees with beautiful bronze bark.
Are there long-range steps we should take now to help our garden later?
Good soil structure produces healthy, robust plants. Most soils benefit from a good organic amendment that, over time, greatly enriches the soil. These are available at most good garden centers and can be applied in spring and fall. For mature gardens, top dressing works well — lay the amendment around the base of the plant and let the organisms in the soil do the work. In new gardens, mix amendment into the native soil when plants are being installed.
How about trimming and fertilizing?
It’s usually best to prune deciduous trees when they’re not in leaf. Hire a professional who can see the tree’s structure and trim appropriately for aesthetic value as well as tree health and leaf growth. Carefully select fertilizers and follow directions to fertilize roses, fruit trees and vegetables.
Special secrets for this time of year?
Foliage plants outperform many bloomers. Excellent examples include banksia, protea and leucadendron. One favorite is the “Safari Sunset” variety. Phormiums are tough flax that come in numerous colors as well as dwarf sizes for small spaces. Tree bark can shine in winter gardens: examples are coral bark Japanese maple, white bark birch, golden bronze of evergreen arbutus.
What are trends for gardens for 2010?
Water is the major concern, regardless of recent rains. Lawn substitutes, native and no-mow grasses will prevail. People also are planning vegetable gardens. Hopefully, more people will come to love succulents, which add enormous sculptural value to landscapes with well-draining soils, and they’re excellent in pots.
Read more at the San Francisco Examiner
4:34:00 PM by LIQUIDAMBAR Garden Design Delete
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